The Bracelet, the Hump and Puffing Billy

The Bracelet, the Hump and Puffing Billy.

Tayeng was a local tour operator in Arunachal Pradesh ( the north eastern most state in Indiaadjoining China). One chilly afternoon, as he sipped his favourite brand of hot Assam ‘chai’ sheltered from the icy mountain winds, he spotted a white skinned tourist working his way in his direction. He observed that this traveler looked a lot more determined unlike the aimless visitors who stopped and haggled at every store to buy cheap bracelets. They were all after the cheap local Tibetan jewelry, unlike the solid silver one that adorned his wrist. His bracelet even had a name -Arnold Starinoha. He paid a pittance for it from a local shepherd who claimed he found it in the mountains, stupid bunkum, he must have stolen it.

‘Mr Tayeng?’ his thoughts were disturbed by an American drawl. They always called him ‘TEY YENG’, when would they get it right? “Clayton Kuhles” said the tourist as he proffered his hand. Glancing down at Tayeng’s adorned wrist , he said “That’s a mighty handsome bracelet you have over there. Incidentally that belongs to Flight Engineer Arnold Starinoha who crashed into these mountains flying a C56 in Dec 1944”

By the middle of the Second World War it became apparent to the Allies that China had to open a front with the Japanese in order to retake Burma. The only problem was that the Chinese army was completely isolated ever since the Burma Road was cut off by the Japanese who now controlled almost entire Burma. Thus it was decided that the China Army had to be supplied by air. This involved flying an extremely hazardous air route called ‘The Hump” over the Himalayasbetween US airbases in northeast India and airfields in Yunnan province of China. The Indian airfields were located in Northern Assam, the most prominent one being Dinjan.

The war effort to supply China brought vital equipment shipped from USA and Great Britain. These were off loaded in Karachi and Calcutta and moved by train to stations near these airfields. On such train had a steam engine Number 6973 made In Baldwin Loco Works, USA. It had been shipped to India to help speed up this massive relief operation.

The Japanese attacked the Assam airfields late in the afternoon of October 25 and December 1943. 100 Jap bombers and fighters, achieved complete surprise. Dinjan was severely damaged by bombing, and nine transports were destroyed. There after the route taken was even more hazardous to avoid the marauding Japs.

By the end of the war the Allies lost hundreds of aircraft in the China-Burma-India (CBI) theater of operations. The losses were incurred by the US Army Air Corp (forerunner of the US Air Force), the British Royal Air Force (RAF), the Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF), and to a lesser degree the China National Aviation Corporation (CNAC) and the Chinese Air Force (CAF). Although hostile fire from Japanese forces accounted for many Allied aircraft losses, the majority of Allied crashes were caused by inhospitable weather, mechanical failure, or navigational error. The USA suffered numerous losses. At times, monthly aircraft losses totalled 50% of all aircraft then in service along the route. At least 501 aircraft were known lost from all causes, with 1,314 air crewmen and passengers killed. In addition, 81 more aircraft were never accounted for, with their 345 personnel listed as missing. Another 1,200 personnel had been rescued or walked back to base on their own.

It was only till recently that Clayton Kuhles and Tayeng started looking for airplane wreckage from WWII. Having found over 14 crash sites, Kuhles brings a sense of closure for some families as his sleuthing is able to shed more light on missing airmen. There really isn't any financial reward, but Kuhles continues his work to find hidden/lost wreckage from a long ago era. By locating the wreckage, Kuhles has provided answers and mementos to the families of scores of missing American servicemen. "In 65 years, there has been no effort to investigate the sites of these crashes. So many lives were just written off and forgotten as if the men went into a black hole," he said. "The family members want answers till this day. They want closure. And that is what I provide."

As for the Steam engine from USA. It was donated by the railways to the army base at Dinjan in 1994. A special track was laid for it from the station to its final pride of place. It took an engineer regiment 68 days to move it 11 kms. It has name now- Puffing Billy, and the kids love him.

Feed The Birds

Tua, my wife, feeding the animals at home

My maternal grandmother, Maji, was the most amazing woman I have ever met. If you heard the fascinating story of her life, you would agree that she was indeed remarkable. One of my fondest memories of her, was her ability to connect with animals. Every morning she would go the back of the house with a handful of crumbs and call out ‘ ah, ah, ah ( come, come, come)’ and out of nowhere these wild birds would appear and literally eat from her hand. So I asked her out of a little boys curiosity ‘ Maji, tell me why you feed these birds every morning” and she replied with most beautiful explanation that made sense to only a little one like me.

“When you die, God turns you into a bird, free to go wherever you want to. But you choose to stay near your loved ones always watching over them. That’s why every morning I feed all of them, never knowing who is who. That way I say good morning to all of them ”

THE FLYING VISITORS OF DINJAN

The best part about my job is to manage the military land of Dinjan and play lots of golf. Located on the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra and surrounded by tea estates and jungles this is a wild life haven. The air is cooled with the majestic Himalayas looking down on us from afar. The golf course, my home away from home, is surrounded by 'jheels', almost horse shoe shaped. A jheel is a lake filled with reeds and fish.

The rains came late this year so the jheels filled up only in Aug. It's a nightmare for us golfers as by some strange gravitational law the balls get attracted to the surface no matter how much height, or speed they may possess. Plonk!

I recall clearly, it was the 16^th of Aug, the day after Independence day when my local caddie said 'Look, Pani Kavi' and pointed skyward. And there they were...

In perfect unison and grace hundreds of ducks from across the mountains! It was as if the grey monsoon skies parted to let them through. It was simply breath taking.

They circled the jheel, selecting their exact point and effortlessly landed in the tall grass, getting enveloped immediately.

For the next few months we watched them go about their work as if we never existed. Once in a while a ball landed in their midst and with a flutter that grew in crescendo and a warning quack to their young ones they would all take off, circle a few times and land precisely back. I suspect some of us sacrificed a ball purposely to see them take flight. It was simply breathtaking.

The littler ones grew and sometimes bravely ventured into the open water. We could spot them in the grass with their bobbing heads.

As winter advanced they would come into the open sun giving us a rare treat, splashing around flapping their wings enjoying the warmth - Silver droplets glinting in the sunlight.

Then the flying lessons began. Around and around us they swirled in the skies -The smaller learning about the V formation and how to relax in the slip stream. They would be gone for longer hours as the training got more strenuous, preparing them for the long flight ahead. Inwardly we dreaded the day they would depart, we had gotten so used to them

And then the day arrived as they took off for the final journey. I distinctly remembered the moon was still in the sky.

In one big giant flap of a million wings they arose, circled the jheel as we watched and then they were off towards the mountains, tiny black dots swallowed in the blue sky.

They will be back next monsoon and forever because we soldiers stand vigil for their safety.

THE TALE OF Bee Tee ( BROKEN TAIL)

We called her Bee Tee - Because she had a broken tail, which used to dangle down at right angles when she was in a tree. For a long time she was sighted near the cattle pound. She had killed a neighboring villager’s calf a week ago, she must've been hungry. So we set the bait and trap and waited. At 5 am I got the call ' We got her!'


She was 4 years old. No cubs as yet - and very very angry - she kept hurling herself at the bars and hurting herself trying to escape.

What a magnificent creature! It was not her fault. We had invaded her turf.


You can see how she had hurt herself. I immediately ordered her covered and dispersed the crowds. we had to treat her before relocating her.

The vet came with a blowgun dart to sedate her - which was not working - so now we had to do it manually - so we squeezed her into a corner and gave her the poke - she went out cold, as per the doc for 3 hours.


So we carted her on a bori to the vet OT


We bandaged her foot ( which was opened prior to release)


Medicated her bruises



Gave her IV

Apparently you measure the age from the ridges on the teeth. Scary, even if the animal is a sleep! Took a whole lot of measurements and samples


You can see why she is called Broken Tail


She came to after 2 hours. So we hurried and put her back

She was still groggy when the vehicle took off for her new home about 100kms away in the forest. The Forest guys took her.


I wish her well and a speedy recovery. Meanwhile there are rumors of another leopard in the area.